Art Nouveau styling changed jewellery designs dramatically with its free-flowing curving lines and forms of romantic ideas and dreams. Intertwining floral patterns, butterflies, and dragonflies, were much in evidence. And pearls and cabochon moonstones were used together with enamelling for pendants, necklaces and hair ornaments. The trend that began in Paris was captured quickly by the rest of the Continent, turning jewels into fashionable wearable art.

Among the most famous goldsmiths of the time was the Parisian, Rene Lalique. He produced some exquisite pieces of jewelry. Lalique began a style of subtlety, placing great emphasis on materials such as glass, enamel, and horn, instead of using precious stones, that is still much admired and copied today.

Art Nouveau styling was the current decoration in the 1890’s and 1900’s reaching a peak about 1900. It was greatly applauded at the Paris International Exhibition.  The love of this extravagant art form of jewellery came to an end about 1914.

Art Deco

Art Deco jewelry began as a protest against the Art Nouveau movement during the 1920’s and 1930’s. This new styling put emphasis on abstract designs, geometric patterns and exotic creations. It was popularized by the machine age for producing jewels and inspired by the Orient. It hinted that jewellery fashions were now truly international.

Dense concentrations of gemstones are characteristic of Art Deco jewellery. From about 1933, gold was once again fashionable, mainly because it was less expensive than platinum. Many artists and designers from other fields now became involved in jewellery design, showing a new direction for future jewellery trends.

Jewellery of the 1950’s

Life had begun to return to normal after the war and during the 50’s new designs and styles for jewelry were brought out in innovative materials. In Britain, many of the fashion trends were influenced by the morale-boosting 1951 Festival of Britain. With the wartime restrictions lifted, diamante from Europe was once again available.

Glamourous jewelry, both genuine and imitation pieces (costume jewellery) were the order of the day. Jewelry now came made in plastics and metals, along with copper, and enamel pieces, of a high quality and well made, creating bold, glitzy items with a luxurious look. Fabulous large rhinestones were often integrated into brooches, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets.

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